General:

Diet is very important for breeding and growing top quality Flemish Giants. Most of the information you will find out there on this topic is nonsense.

When buying a rabbit from someone make sure you get some of the feed the rabbit is used to. You will need to slowly switch the rabbit to the feed you plan to use. The best way is to go, 3/4 old feed to 1/4 new feed. The process takes about 2 weeks. At the middle of the process you will be at, 1/2 old & 1/2 new. Then at the end of the process you will be at, 3/4 new 1/4 old. Shortly after that you will be done with the feed switch.

Hay:

Like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of their diet is hay, roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion while providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Rabbits are graisers, they eat some and go lay down then eat some more. This does not mean they will eat too much. Their gut needs constant movement to keep from blocking up.

The type of hay the rabbit will accept, vary per individual. Most tend to like clover, alfalfa and orchard grass.   I use a forage product from Kent. Its is called Dynasty Forage. I find mine in a local animal feed store or a hay auction.

Other:

Some places recommend that the Flemish Giant, like other rabbits, receive a standard intake of 2 cups of chopped dark, green, leafy vegetables per 6 pounds of body weight (although this should be provided after six months of age to prevent enteritis). Then,  I have also found that some rabbits will not accept anything other than their hay and pellets.  DO NOT GIVE A RABBIT UNDER 6 MONTHS ANYTHING OTHER THAN ITS NORMAL FEED, HAY AND WATER.

It is common for some owners to provide treats, although in very limited quantities.  Commercial treats are available in pet stores and can be occasionally used, although even more sparingly, since they typically feature a higher sugar and starch content.   I will give our adult rabbits any leafy greens available, dandelions, etc., and they love them. My rabbits will not eat carrots at all – I know, it sounds crazy but, that’s the truth. I also give them sparingly a ½ cup of our sweet feed every other day. They are all piggy, and will only want to eat the sweet feed, which will make them fat. The only other exception is when the females (does) are pregnant, then, I give them a small amount of the sweet feed daily.   Other than that, they get it as a treat.   I also top dress the sweet feed with a  liquid supplement, that contains minerals, vitamins, and some different omega fatty oils. They love the taste, it makes for a great shiny coat and again, I know that they have all of their daily needs covered.  It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal.

Pellet Feed:

I prefer to free feed our rabbits their pellets, hay and water.  (Free feed means:  Allowing the animal the option to obtain all the food it wants, and giving them several days worth of food, rather than just what they will consume for that day).  Some places or breeders recommend feeding your rabbits once a day, and with a pre-measured quantity of  feed that they need for that day.  This is done so that the rabbits won't get fat by over eating.   I disagree, I have not encountered that our rabbits will over eat, and thus, all of their food is given to them as free feed...  Well, except for the sweet feed! In fact I have found they eat more if you only give them a measured amount each day. Which makes sense because they think they are going to run out and they don't know when they will get more feed.

I feed a 18% protein feed. I have found it makes bigger stronger rabbits. The only thing it lacks is minerals. So I give them small mineral blocks to lick on. The reason I use this feed is that it is the best 18% feed I can find at a reasonable price. I have 50+ rabbits to feed at any one time so can you blame me. The feed I use costs about $10.00 a bag, and its a 50lb bag. With the amount of rabbits I have I use about a ton of feed every 3 months. 

Sweet Feed:

I make a sweet feed mixture for my rabbits. It is a mix of:

Oats

Barley

Nobel Goat Medicated feed

Calf Manna

Feed Mix (it has some corn soy beans and various stock feeds.)

Wheat Germ Oil

Molasses

I make it in a large mixer. It helps with coat quality and body mass. The Nobel Goat feed has medication in it to fight Coccidia which rabbits and all animals get from a water source. There are other chemicals I also use to fight it as well. Do not give a rabbit more than 1/2 a cup a day of sweet feed. If you do, its a sure fire way to make problems for yourself.

Water:

The Flemish Giant will also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, hanging water bottle, or watering system like the type that we use.    Initially, I found out that our rabbits didn't like the water bottles with metal ball tips.  I also realized that they dripped all the time, and made a mess.   I searched, and found a water bottle with a no drip spring activated stainless steel valve tip, and this was what the doctor ordered!  The water bottle name brand we use is:  LIXIT Animal care products brand.  www.lixit.com   The water bottle is placed on the outside of your hutch, and it has a flip top lid for easy refill.  I loved the pressure sensitive tip that kept the water in with no drip, drip, drip.  I have since then moved to using heated water bowls because my rabbitry is not heated yet.  

Feeding & Diet

Feeding & Diet

Feeding & Diet

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Page last updated: September 29, 2011

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